For many people, there is something of a “honeymoon” period right after they’ve finished building their first 3D printer. You’ve got everything working, your printer is nicely tuned, you’ve gotten calibration shapes to come out jus like you want them. Congratulations! Youmagine and Thingiverse have become your favorite websites, and your’e spending hours just looking . . . → Read More: 3D printing software tools: OpenSCAD
Every once in a while, in any field of endeavor, something comes along that really re-defines the paradigm. For reasons I won’t be going into here, I don’t like to use the term “Game Changer”, but that’s really what I’m talking about. The RepRap world in particular, and the 3D printing world in general, . . . → Read More: Review: The Prometheus all-metal hotend from Distech Automation
So it took me a while, but recently I fnally got around to assembling the Makerfarm Prusa i3v 3D printer that had been sitting in my “to do” stack.
The i3v builds upon the successful Makerfarm Prusa i3, by replacing the traditional system of smooth rods and linear bearings with beefy OpenBeam extrusions and . . . → Read More: Makerfarm i3v review – initial impressions:
I’ve been asked about this a few times, and it seemed appropriate to put together a quick post on the topic.
In my humble opinion, one of the most useful features of Marlin is the ability to save a bunch of settings to what is essentially a non-volatile area memory that exists on the . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Activating Marlin’s EEPROM functions, and what that does for you.
I’ve set up a Facebook page specific to 3D printing. I think this will make it a lot easier to make small updates that don’t seem to warrant a full blog post. Check it out!
Zennmaster’s 3D printing on Facebook
At this point, you have most likely done some basic calibration on your extrusion. If not, please check out part one of this series:
Once you’ve got that done, you’re ready to move to the next step, and dial in that calibration just a little bit more finely.
The method I use is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Calibrating your Extruder, Part 2: Fine-Tuning.
So you’ve got your printer built, and you’re ready to start spitting plastic. Maybe you get a few test prints done, which turns out to be just enough to demonstrate that something isn’t quite right. In any case, you’re going to need to make an initial calibration of your extrusion.
This is also something . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Calibrating your extruder, part 1: E-steps
For the last couple of months, I’ve had the chance to use two different versions of the E3D all-metal hotend on two different printers. I’ve been running an E3Dv5 on my Makerfarm Prusa i3, and an E3Dv4 came with my MendelMax 2.0.
Both of these hotends, of course, are all-metal. If you’re interested, you can . . . → Read More: Review – E3D all-metal hotend
In the world of RepRap, all-metal hotends have been a big deal lately.
Do you really need one?
On the one hand, they promise the ability to print in amazing new and exotic, high temperature materials with seemingly unlimited posibilities.
They also serve to calm the nerves of those (myself included) who have had the . . . → Read More: 3D printing: some thoughts on all-metal hotends.
It may seem obvious; a hotend needs two things to regulate temperature: a heat source to provide the heat, and a temperature sensor to provide feedback as to whether the hotend is too hot, too cool, or in the Goldilocks zone, “Just Right”.
The most commonly used temperature sensor is the thermistor, which is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Using silicate-based putty to install a thermistor in a hotend.