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3D Printing 
At this point, you have most likely done some basic calibration on your extrusion. If not, please check out part one of this series: Once you’ve got that done, you’re ready to move to the next step, and dial in that calibration just a little bit more finely. The method I use is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Calibrating your Extruder, Part 2: Fine-Tuning. 3D Printing 
So you’ve got your printer built, and you’re ready to start spitting plastic. Maybe you get a few test prints done, which turns out to be just enough to demonstrate that something isn’t quite right. In any case, you’re going to need to make an initial calibration of your extrusion. This is also something . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Calibrating your extruder, part 1: E-steps 3D Printing 
For the last couple of months, I’ve had the chance to use two different versions of the E3D all-metal hotend on two different printers. I’ve been running an E3Dv5 on my Makerfarm Prusa i3, and an E3Dv4 came with my MendelMax 2.0. Both of these hotends, of course, are all-metal. If you’re interested, you can . . . → Read More: Review – E3D all-metal hotend 3D Printing 
In the world of RepRap, all-metal hotends have been a big deal lately. Do you really need one? On the one hand, they promise the ability to print in amazing new and exotic, high temperature materials with seemingly unlimited posibilities. They also serve to calm the nerves of those (myself included) who have had the . . . → Read More: 3D printing: some thoughts on all-metal hotends. 3D Printing 
It may seem obvious; a hotend needs two things to regulate temperature: a heat source to provide the heat, and a temperature sensor to provide feedback as to whether the hotend is too hot, too cool, or in the Goldilocks zone, “Just Right”. The most commonly used temperature sensor is the thermistor, which is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Using silicate-based putty to install a thermistor in a hotend. 3D Printing 
So you’re thinking about getting into 3D printing in general, and maybe you’re especially interested in one of the RepRap designs, or one of the many RepRap derivatives that have entered the market recently. Great! You may be wondering what you’ll need to know, and what you’ll need to have in order to get started . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: The Toolbox 3D Printing 
Now that you’ve got the hardware assembled and Marlin enabled and installed, it’s time to put it all together: The first thing you’ll want to do is set up your servo extend/retract angles. Do that by sending the following command in Pronterface: M280 P0 S160 This command is telling the printer to extend servo . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 3: Final setup Bigfoot/Sasquatch 
I have many childhood memories that involve being captivated by stories about sasquatches. One that hit particularly close to home for me (largely because it was said to have happened less than two hours from my house) was that told by a man who initially didn’t want to give his name, but was eventually identified . . . → Read More: Squatchin’ with the Daughter, Expedition 4 – The Glenn Thomas site: 3D Printing 
If there’s one task that has been most frustrating in operating a 3D printer, it has to be leveling the bed. Like any other task that involves making multiple adjustments, this one was tedious and time-consuming. Get one corner “Just right”, and another corner goes just a little out of adjustment, and you’re making another . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 1: Assembly and basic setup. 3D Printing 
So you’ve got your new Makerfarm Prusa i3 3D printer all set up, printing, and maybe even tuned so it’s singing just beautifully. Now you hear there’s some new feature of the Marlin firmware that isn’t implemented on the version you’ve got installed. Can you just download the new version, flash it to your printer . . . → Read More: Upgrading the Makerfarm Prusa i3 to a new version of Marlin: |
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