In the world of RepRap, all-metal hotends have been a big deal lately.
Do you really need one?
On the one hand, they promise the ability to print in amazing new and exotic, high temperature materials with seemingly unlimited posibilities.
They also serve to calm the nerves of those (myself included) who have had the . . . → Read More: 3D printing: some thoughts on all-metal hotends.
It may seem obvious; a hotend needs two things to regulate temperature: a heat source to provide the heat, and a temperature sensor to provide feedback as to whether the hotend is too hot, too cool, or in the Goldilocks zone, “Just Right”.
The most commonly used temperature sensor is the thermistor, which is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Using silicate-based putty to install a thermistor in a hotend.
So you’re thinking about getting into 3D printing in general, and maybe you’re especially interested in one of the RepRap designs, or one of the many RepRap derivatives that have entered the market recently. Great!
You may be wondering what you’ll need to know, and what you’ll need to have in order to get started . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: The Toolbox
Now that you’ve got the hardware assembled and Marlin enabled and installed, it’s time to put it all together:
The first thing you’ll want to do is set up your servo extend/retract angles.
Do that by sending the following command in Pronterface:
M280 P0 S160
This command is telling the printer to extend servo . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 3: Final setup
I have many childhood memories that involve being captivated by stories about sasquatches. One that hit particularly close to home for me (largely because it was said to have happened less than two hours from my house) was that told by a man who initially didn’t want to give his name, but was eventually identified . . . → Read More: Squatchin’ with the Daughter, Expedition 4 – The Glenn Thomas site:
If there’s one task that has been most frustrating in operating a 3D printer, it has to be leveling the bed. Like any other task that involves making multiple adjustments, this one was tedious and time-consuming. Get one corner “Just right”, and another corner goes just a little out of adjustment, and you’re making another . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 1: Assembly and basic setup.
So you’ve got your new Makerfarm Prusa i3 3D printer all set up, printing, and maybe even tuned so it’s singing just beautifully.
Now you hear there’s some new feature of the Marlin firmware that isn’t implemented on the version you’ve got installed. Can you just download the new version, flash it to your printer . . . → Read More: Upgrading the Makerfarm Prusa i3 to a new version of Marlin:
(I’m assuming that you have already downloaded and set up the current version of Marlin to work with your printer. This post is ONLY about getting the auto bed-leveling functions active. If you need help getting Marlin ready, check out this post: Upgrading the Makerfarm Prusa i3 to a new version of Marlin)
There . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 2: Setting up Marlin
If you saw my earlier review of the Magma hotend, you know I found it a little disappointing. Shortly after publishing that video review, I found out about the 3D Industries AluhotendV4. On the face of it, it seemed to be a nicely balanced compromise between the durablity (indestructibility?) of an all-metal hotend with the . . . → Read More: AluhotendV4 review part 1 – Unboxing, basic setup, and initial impressions
Here is a little thing I made.
Thingiverse – Atari 2600 Raspberry Pi Case
And here are some pictures:
This was a really fun project that taught me a lot about using OpenSCAD. In particular, I learned a lot about getting real-world measurements into the CAD environment (if anyone has any tricks . . . → Read More: The Atari 2600 Raspberry Pi Case: