The Columbia Gorge is about 40 minutes or so East of where I live. My entire life, it’s been an escape. Every tourist who has ever visited the state of Oregon is required by law to look at Multnomah Falls, and it long ago slid off my radar. I’m that guy that simply cannot stop . . . → Read More: The Gorge is burning, some thoughts on redemption.
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I’ve been asked about this a few times, and it seemed appropriate to put together a quick post on the topic. In my humble opinion, one of the most useful features of Marlin is the ability to save a bunch of settings to what is essentially a non-volatile area memory that exists on the . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Activating Marlin’s EEPROM functions, and what that does for you. 
At this point, you have most likely done some basic calibration on your extrusion. If not, please check out part one of this series: Once you’ve got that done, you’re ready to move to the next step, and dial in that calibration just a little bit more finely. The method I use is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Calibrating your Extruder, Part 2: Fine-Tuning. 
For the last couple of months, I’ve had the chance to use two different versions of the E3D all-metal hotend on two different printers. I’ve been running an E3Dv5 on my Makerfarm Prusa i3, and an E3Dv4 came with my MendelMax 2.0. Both of these hotends, of course, are all-metal. If you’re interested, you can . . . → Read More: Review – E3D all-metal hotend 
In the world of RepRap, all-metal hotends have been a big deal lately. Do you really need one? On the one hand, they promise the ability to print in amazing new and exotic, high temperature materials with seemingly unlimited posibilities. They also serve to calm the nerves of those (myself included) who have had the . . . → Read More: 3D printing: some thoughts on all-metal hotends. 
It may seem obvious; a hotend needs two things to regulate temperature: a heat source to provide the heat, and a temperature sensor to provide feedback as to whether the hotend is too hot, too cool, or in the Goldilocks zone, “Just Right”. The most commonly used temperature sensor is the thermistor, which is a . . . → Read More: RepRap 101: Using silicate-based putty to install a thermistor in a hotend. 
Now that you’ve got the hardware assembled and Marlin enabled and installed, it’s time to put it all together: The first thing you’ll want to do is set up your servo extend/retract angles. Do that by sending the following command in Pronterface: M280 P0 S160 This command is telling the printer to extend servo . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 3: Final setup 
If there’s one task that has been most frustrating in operating a 3D printer, it has to be leveling the bed. Like any other task that involves making multiple adjustments, this one was tedious and time-consuming. Get one corner “Just right”, and another corner goes just a little out of adjustment, and you’re making another . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 1: Assembly and basic setup. 
So you’ve got your new Makerfarm Prusa i3 3D printer all set up, printing, and maybe even tuned so it’s singing just beautifully. Now you hear there’s some new feature of the Marlin firmware that isn’t implemented on the version you’ve got installed. Can you just download the new version, flash it to your printer . . . → Read More: Upgrading the Makerfarm Prusa i3 to a new version of Marlin: 
(I’m assuming that you have already downloaded and set up the current version of Marlin to work with your printer. This post is ONLY about getting the auto bed-leveling functions active. If you need help getting Marlin ready, check out this post: Upgrading the Makerfarm Prusa i3 to a new version of Marlin)
There . . . → Read More: Auto bed-leveling for the Makerfarm Prusa i3 – Part 2: Setting up Marlin |
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